Simple Pleasures in TOWN

Kaimuki adds another friendly bistro 

destined to become cool, hip & trendy

Town opened just a few weeks ago, but this stylish Kaimuki bistro has hit its stride.

We arrived 20 minutes early for our 7 o’clock reservation. It was a Friday night, and the evening rush was on. Still, we were seated within a couple minutes of our arrival. We found the service all evening to be attentive and efficient.

Town’s décor is quietly contemporary, with dark wood accents set against muted sage green and orange. The room’s acoustics play up the sound of chatter, probably due to the predominance of hard surfaces (stainless steel tabletops, polished concrete floor).

I was very hungry, so the complimentary starter brought by our waiter, Jonas, was especially welcome: a few slices of good bread, served simply with a slice of softened butter & a scattering of olives.

For an appetizer, we shared an order of salt cod brandade fritters ($6.50). Brandade, a Provencal dish, consists of a puree of salt cod mixed with olive oil and potatoes. The trio
of warm fritters as prepared by Chef David Caldiero had a crisp, golden coating of panko. Accompaniments were garlic mayonnaise and malt vinegar, served in twin demitasse cups.

The tomato-ginger soup ($6) was a standout: two bright, intense flavors in an ideal balance. Topped with a chiffonade of fresh mint, the soup was smooth and delectable. My companion ordered a salad of beets, orange, watercress, mint, and gorgonzola, with a poppy seed dressing ($8.50) – one of three composed salads on the menu.

The courses at Town are sized so you can eat several – and you’ll want to. If you like wine or beer with your dinner, you will need to bring your own. The charge per glass is $3.50.

My entrée was mint pasta with lamb ragout ($18), a pleasant take on the traditional pairing of lamb with mint. The wide, green noodles had just the right tender bite. A fresh mint garnish amplified the pasta’s mild flavor. The dish was topped with a few shavings of Pecorino Romano.

My companion ordered moi ($19), which came on a bed of warm white bean salad with wilted arugula, and salsa verde. The filet was moist and rich, enhanced with a lightly crisp coating.

The dessert list was so intriguing we had to give it a try. Actually, we sampled two: the almond olive oil cake ($6) – a just-sweet-enough cake served with peeled chunks of orange and grapefruit. The cake, studded with roasted almonds, comes with a generous dollop of whipped cream. The chocolate banini ($6) – a dessert panini – arrived cut into quarters, like a child’s snack. It was so good that we had a minor tussle over who got the last one (and ended up splitting it).

Town is a great place to go for simple food that is well prepared and presented with a bit of whimsy. The bill including tax but not the tip (without alcohol) was $73.

Town

 3435 Waialae Avenue #103

Hours are Monday to Thursday,
6:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.,
Friday & Saturday 6:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Closed Sunday

Continental breakfast,
6:30 to 11:30 a.m.
Lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Dinner 5:30 p.m. to close

BYOB; glass charge is $3.50/person

Reservations are recommended;
call 735-5900.
Parking behind building or on street.
Major credit cards accepted.