Restaurant Review - Breakers
Bar & Restaurant

By: Kevin McQuarrie
Oahu Island News
 

On the North Shore – where surfing is the breath of life and wearing a watch means you’re really dressed up – there’s a new restaurant as tasty as the famed waves.

Breakers Restaurant & Bar, located in the North Shore Marketplace in Haleiwa, opened its doors this spring and is quickly gaining a following.

Our dining companions had been to Breakers soon after its debut and had experienced rocky service. We talked them into trying the place again and were pleased to discover that the res-taurant’s early kinks have since been smoothed out.

The atmosphere is lively and the place is decorated in homage to the surfing world. The walls are covered with striking photographs of skilled athletes conquering giant waves, a video loop plays footage of world-class surfing and the ceiling is covered with a variety of boards.

It’s a laid-back spot, yet polished enough for a Saturday night dinner with friends.

Although we only had to wait a few minutes for a table, I would recommend making reservations if you’ll be eating during peak hours.

I’m a sucker (forgive the pun) for squid, so I started off my meal with the Lemon Pepper Calamari ($6.95). A generous portion was piled onto the plate and served with a rich chipotle/mayonnaise dipping sauce. The cala-mari rings were crisp, hot and lightly battered, although I’d prefer just a touch more seasoning to stir things up a bit.

Since mangoes are in season, I sampled a frozen mango Offshore Daiquiri ($5.50). It was delicious: refreshing yet not overly sweet.

We also tried two other appetizers. Shane’s Seared Sashimi ($8.95) featured ruby-hued, bite-size squares of flash-seared tuna served with a ginger-soy dipping sauce. It was excellent fish; chilled and tender.

The Shrimp Satay ($6.75) arrived with a thick, spicy peanut sauce on the side. The grilled shrimp, plump and fresh, had been basted with a tangy sauce, keeping them moist on the skewers.

For our entrees, we selected Macadamia Nut Crusted Chicken Breast ($14.95), which was tender and well-seasoned. It was served with a tropical avocado-papaya salsa and a side of steamed rice. The Tandoori Salmon Filet ($14.95) was pan-seared with Indian influences evident in the choice of spices. This dish was served with slightly sweet jasmine rice, an eggplant relish and stir-fried mixed vegetables.

Vegetarians will find plenty of options on the menu, including the Garden Pizza ($10.95), a 10-inch pizza fired in a Keawe-wood-burning oven. The pizza had a garlic-pesto sauce, chopped artichoke hearts, fresh tomatoes, sliced zucchini, fresh mozzarella and parmesan cheese. It was large enough that two people could have shared and indeed, we enjoyed the leftovers the next day at lunchtime.

The Indonesian Tempeh with Noodles ($12.95) had a thick peanut sauce, chewy vegetable protein, mixed vegetables and wok-tossed pasta. It was hearty and again, large enough to share.

Although we were quite full, we had saved just enough room to split a slice of Kauai Pie ($5.95). The towering, frozen confection came with an Oreo-cookie crust, Kona coffee-flavored ice cream and a layer of fudge, topped with macadamia nuts and coconut flakes.

Overall, we found the service at Breakers to be very pleasant, quick and enthusiastic. After a small snafu where the pizza arrived with uninvited mushrooms, the server immediately offered to replace it and also reduced the item’s price on our check.

Whether you’re looking for a family-friendly atmosphere or a night out with friends, I would definitely recommend Breakers. It has the relaxed spirit of the North Shore, good food and a menu varied enough that everyone will find something to their liking.

Breaker Bar & Restaurant
North Shore Marketplace
637-9898